Thursday, January 1, 2015

The Collector and The Hobbyist

I say 'The Collector AND The Hobbyist' because I think they can coexist.  A hobby is for dabbling.  It amuses you.  A collection is work.  Work is rewarding but it requires consistent effort.  And there went the amusement.


My front yard succulents amuse me.  Nothing but hardy sedums and sempervivums.  I completely forget about them, except when I take a turn with drink in hand, provided I get home from work before sunset (a physical impossibility for this latitude most of the year... not me kvetching, I promise).





My indoor succulents give me guilt trips.  They sit there, stoically impassive.  Then they plunge into death-throws if I call their bluff, thinking, "no plant REALLY wants that kind of neglect," and give them a measly tablespoon of water in the apparently improper month/week/day/hour/temperature/light-level/moon-phase/bird-migration/they-don't-like-my-sweater.  Seriously, they make me insecure and clingy.




But, all collections take work and I am getting something out of the relationship.  I keep records (see below), not too detailed because I am trying to limit my 'calls for help' these days.

I currently have a bit of a mystery.  This is my Pachypodium rosulatum:



This flower has an intense, gardenia-like scent.  Unfortunately, there should be no scent.  I dunno what that means, but I am very accepting of the gift.  That little guy to the left of the P. rosulatum, Matalea cyclophyllus, has a rotting-meat scented flower.  Can't all be winners.



Still, I am counting this year as a win.  I have only killed two plants, one of which, really wasn't my fault.  Unlike most Crassulae, the 'special' ones tend to die after flowering.  I was an unsuccessful pollinator, so I did not get any seeds to ensure my progeny.  I would take it in stride, but arthropods with underdeveloped cerebrums seem to do this just fine.  Whatever.  They have smaller hips and so, can actually wiggle in towards the necessary anatomy.  I blame my genetic heritage.

A selection for your amusement (feel free to ignore)  Also, the P's stand for poisonous.  The Adeniums are used to tip arrows for hunting.  See, I said I was getting something out of the relationship:


Adenium arabicum (Shada) P: loses leaves in fall, leaves grow in late spring, water infrequently when dormant and frequently when it is growing, let dry between waterings, this plant has two growing seasons (April to July, August to Nov), rare

Adenium obesum P: loses leaves in fall, leaves grow in late Spring, water infrequently when dormant and frequently when it is growing, let dry between waterings

Adenium somalense P:water occasionally while losing leaves and dormant, water infrequently when leafing begins, but water frequently when it is hot, loses all leaves by February and sends out new leaves in late spring, this plant has two growing seasons (April to July, August to Feb)

Aloe conifera: water occasionally throughout year, avoid direct sun, winter flowering of yellow, sweet scented, corn-cob resembling flower, rare

Aloe deltoideodonta var. candicans: water occasionally in summer and rarely in winter, summer grower, avoid direct sunlight, red and white flowers, rare

Aloe laeta: winter grower, water less in summer and reduce amount of light, rare

            Died after over-watering during summer dormancy 8.2014.

Avonia alstonii ssp. quinaria: slow growing, stays short, flowers late spring to early fall, pink flowers that open in the heat of late afternoon, very water sensitive so only do light, flowering, rare, infrequent waterings in cold weather and light, frequent watering when hot

Beaucarnea (formerly Nolinia) gracilis: infrequent  watering year round, full to partial sun, caudex form rare

Cissus tuberosa: loses leaves in fall, grows new leaves and vines in late spring, water occasionally when dormant but frequently in summer, keep pot small and watering shallow to encourage caudex growth, can prune aggressively

Cotyledon paniculata (now Tylecodon paniculata, Botterboom or Butter Tree) P: dormant in summer, water infrequently when dormant and remove from direct light, put in direct light when leafing begins in late fall and water frequently, red, tube-like flowers at end of growing season, slow growing, rare

Crassula pyramidalis: bloom in late spring and then die, grow from cuttings like other crassula, mist seeds to start them in well-draining soil, water frequently, red tint on leaves in direct light

            Died after flowering 8.2014, no successful propagation

Cremnosedum (Little Gem): moderate water year round, spreads to a low mat of rosettes, leaves turn bright red in direct sun, yellow flowers in late summer into early winter

Euphorbia milli var. milli P: dryer in winter/spring, fewer leaves

Euphorbia obesa P: almost dry in winter, infrequent water in summer, can scorch in direct sun

Euphorbia susannae P: clumping mound of offshoots, occasional watering year round with a decrease in winter, prefers indirect sunlight, do not water when hot because plant is dormant, use extreme care when handling due to potent sap

Fenestraria aurantiacia (Baby’s Toes): moderate watering year round, let soil dry between waterings, needs full to partial sun, yellow flowers in early winter

Gasteria batesiana (Black Belle): infrequent watering year round but frequent in hot weather, leaves turn red/black in strong light

Gasteria obtusa forma variegata (Fuji Yuki): water frequently, acquired after cold damaged

Haworthia magnifica var. atrofusca: occasional watering year round and do not allow to dry, can take light shade to partial sunlight, turns purple to red in strong light, rare

Haworthia scabra var. starkiana: occasional watering year round and do not allow to dry, prefers light shade but will turn red to yellow in strong light, offsets slowly, rare

Lithops karasmontanas var. aiaisensis (Orange Ice): moderate watering year round, let soil dry between waterings, in full sun the color will be red and grey while in partial sun it will be green and peach, white flowers in the winter

Lithops lesliei var. rubrobrunnea: moderate watering year round, let soil dry between waterings, in full sun it will be purple and pink

Lithops lesliei var. lesliei: moderate watering year round, let soil dry between waterings, in full sun it will be light green to pale blue

Matalea cyclophyllus: light shade, loses all leaves in mid fall and grows leaves in late spring, light watering when dormant and frequent watering otherwise, flowers dark purple and smell like rotting meat, rare

Pachypodium densiflorum var. densiflorum: yellow, unscented flowers in May, never loses all leaves during winter, water all year (heavy in hot weather and less in cold) but let dry between waterings

Pachypodium lamerei: more dry months than densiflorium and rosulatum (leaves start in June), otherwise same watering, light, and temperature, will get to height of 2.5 m, will not flower until mature (at least 1.5 m)

Pachypodium lamerei var. ramosum: almost to completely loses all leaves in winter (unlike rosulatum and densiflorium) but grows new leaves in late spring, otherwise care is same as for rosulatum tall) and densiflorium, stays dwarf, will not flower until mature (at least 1.5 m)

Pachypodium rosulatum var. nova: yellow, unscented flowers, never loses all leaves during winter, water all year (heavy in hot weather and less in cold) but let dry between waterings.  Waterings season.  Roots should not be allowed to remain submerged in water or damp should be between a tablespoon to half a cup of water, depending on growing material between waterings. If new leaves are black in color, then plant day.  Do not let plant get below 55 deg. F, except for brief periods. is too dry and getting too much sun.  Keep plant in South-facing window (preferable) or East-facing.  Allow plant to receive direct light during

            Deacquisitioned, 7.2014

Pachypodium rosulatum var. rosulatum: yellow, scented flowers in early June (supposed to be unscented flowers but these are quite sweet), never loses all leaves during winter, water all year (heavy in hot weather and less in cold) but let dry between waterings

Pleiospilos nelii: water frequently but let dry between waterings (less in cold weather), turns pink in direct light

Pseudolithos migiurtinus: needs strong light but not full sun, very infrequent watering in cold weather, shallow frequent watering in warm weather, ventilate after watering, red flowers that smell like rotting meat, do not let it get cold

Sedum frutescens (Joshua Tree Sedum): full sun, occasional watering year round (a tablespoon in cold weather and half-cup in hot weather, about once a week), do not allow roots to remain submerged in only trim old growth in spring water between waterings, white flowers in summer, can be used for bonsai

            Deacquisitioned, 7.2014

Senecio kleiniiformis: water moderately throughout the year but let soil dry between waterings, prefers indirect sun, pale yellow flowers, can develop caudex

Schizobasis intricata P: very drought tolerant, self-pollinating flowers all year, occasional watering year round

Veltheimia bracteata (Forest Lily, Sand Onion, or Red-Hot Poker): summer dormant, prefers indirect light and shade, can tolerate low temperatures, water occasionally year round while decreasing the watering during dormancy, begins to lose leaves in spring, begins leafing in Nov.


Xerosicyos danguyi (Silver Dollar Plant/Vine): succulent vine from a gourd, occasional watering year round, full to partial shade, light green flowers in spring

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