Welcome to my dojo

Hello there.

Every mountain goat needs a lair, someplace epic.

Perhaps a hollow mountain?

Say what???

Just my size.

Y'all come back now, hear?

This little goat is yet to be named.  He is just a quick, little, commissioned gift.  While it seems illogical, I think working smaller is more difficult than working large.  You end up using thinner yarn and a smaller hook.  So ultimately, there isn't a huge reduction in the number of stitches and it is much more demanding in the whole concentration/motor skills department.  It does use less materials, though.  I actually used wool yarn for this project.  I have a stock pile of uber-small wool skeins (abandoned to me by my mother... who is apparently much smarter than I and knows not to use these yarns for her projects anymore) and I am always trying to use them up.  Even though they are fine quality, virgin wool it is very hard to use.  It is much 'stickier' on the hook .  I guess the friction is good because it holds the knots and stitches together...but I seem to take twice as long on each stitch. 

I am sure there is some wisdom on the merit of these slow stitches that is fitting for a mountain goat dojo.  Perhaps the goat could be a consulting sensei?

Envelopes

I suspect there will be several posts on envelopes, but you gotta start somewhere.

While there are many types of envelopes, I am just going to focus on the most common choices for envelopes when you are purposely selecting/buying for an event.  Otherwise, if this is just for general use, who cares what envelope you use.  I always pick the cheapest or just send an email (normally the email because I can attach pictures of lolcats).

In the picture above there are four very different types of envelopes.  Starting in the top, right corner and working clockwise, there is a standard postage size, announcement envelope, then a standard postage size, baronial envelope, then a non-standard size, square, announcement envelope (you will be paying extra to mail), and last is a totally non-standard envelope for a gift enclosure (mail at your own risk).

Announcement envelopes are also called A-line or square flaps.  They are all this category because of their flap shape and the orientation of the flap along the length of the envelope.  When you buy nice envelopes, this is where you have the most options.  There is a little variation on how wide the flap is, but generally the flap comes down to almost half the width of the envelope.

I am very curious about why so many envelopes are square flap.  Frankly, there are other 'fancy' flap shapes and the paper quality is what makes it a nice envelope.  I do have a theory, though.  If you think about it, there is less paper used to make an envelope with a flap like this than is used to make one with a big, triangular flap.

These triangular flaps are collectively called 'v' flaps.  When it is a small 'v' that goes to the middle (or just shy of the middle) of the envelope, it is a baronial envelope (L).  When the 'v' passes the middle of the envelope and almost goes the full width of the envelope, it is called a deep-'v' envelope (R).

Generally, the deep-'v's are considered much fancier than your standard baronial.  On a practical note, you do have more room to write your return address on the flap of the deep-'v', but otherwise, it is just 'fancier' because it is more expensive... and it is more expensive because it uses more paper.

To be honest, you don't have many options when you go and buy envelopes.  When papers for printing get made into their matching envelopes, there is only one style they get made into.  Basically, if you want a deep-'v' envelope in a particular paper and there is only a pack of square flap envelopes on the shelf, you are out of luck.

While you can't pick and choose your flap style, you normally have a wide range of choices in envelope size.  Most rectangular envelopes that you see for sale are going to be standard postage (provided they aren't too big/too small or too heavy when it gets filled).  The main, non-standard postage, envelope option is the square envelope.  The reason the square is extra to mail has to do with what the post office does with its envelopes.  When the mail comes in, there is an automated process for the stamping and initial processing.  A rectangular envelope has a clear orientation on it's top/bottom and sides whereas a square does not.  So the machines cannot process the envelope properly and it needs to be hand-cancelled.  Hence, extra postage.

If you put this in the mailbox, it will get delivered but your recipient will be paying the extra postage.  Same thing if you put something too big in the mailbox.  If you put something too small in (like that gift enclosure from the top of the post), you might not be so lucky.  It might not even make it to the recipient.  Small things get mashed up and lost.  Of course, you can put anything in the mailbox and provided there is enough postage on it, it will be mailed.  I have put things smaller than the 3.5x5 in. size requirement in the mail and it worked out just fine.... but it is smaller than what the post office says that you can send.  So decide if you feel lucky.

Hope this is a good start to some of the options.  There is much more to be said on sizing, materials, and shapes, but let's just leave that riveting page-turner for another day.

Sheep Done

Normally I just make things... you know, you have a vision and then you execute it.  This time, though, I had a bit of a much needed reality check.

 

I had been fretting a miscalculation in the expansion of the boucle yarn which made the sheep over double the expected size.  In my grand scheme, there would be a semi-rigid batting structure, which would strengthen the legs and allow the sheep to stand.  Of course, this growth spurt in the sheep's body made for too much weight on the leg supports.

The sheep was destined to remain forever on its side, like some fluffy, barnyard, serpentine Venus.  Which actually is kind of alluring, but not quite the grand statement I was going for.

Then I hatched a plan to put in wooden dowels as a core inside the batting structures.  The sheep would stand, grand and indomitable.  But then I had a bit of an epiphany.

I was show-and-telling the sheep in progress to the child of one of my friends.  What happened was the much needed reality check.  This little boy went up to the sheep, gave it a big hug, and then sat on it... and then hugged it some more.  I had been so caught up in my vision of a standing sheep that I forgot how kids want to play. 

Ultimately, this is a gift and the recipient should always come first.  The sheep needs to cuddle-able, first and foremost.  Something squishy to use as a pillow and a plaything.  So she should be seated and soft, huge as she is, errr, big boned and voluptuous.

It is so easy to forget the whole 'form follows function' when we are making things independently and unchecked.  I am embarrassed to say that I was going to ruin all future potential for snuggling and play with my wooden rods.  I guess that this is just a good reminder not to make things in a vacuum; sometimes the romantic vision can overshadow the original intentions. 

I am so glad that little boy sat on that sheep (though mom was pretty mortified).

And now, on to the next project!

Card stock and Cover Papers

Card stock and Cover papers are the primary 'thicker' papers that you use for printing projects, be it commercial in scale or for a small, special occasion.

 

 

Generally, card stock is a term reserved for papers sold for crafting purposes, but sometimes you see heavier weight paper for printing called card stock when there is no lighter weight version of the paper available.  Otherwise, heavyweight paper for printing is called Cover.  This is the paper you use for folded cards, flat cards, enclosures, and business cards.  While there are always limitations on sizing when you print on paper (is it too little or too big to run through a printer), the weight of a paper is also a limiting factor.  Make sure you check on printing with a test sheet before you commit and buy a stack.

Since the printing is more complicated on Cover, many people opt for printing on Text weight, then mount it onto Cover pieces.  Once you open the field to using the heavy paper as a purely decorative and structurally supportive element, then scrapbook paper is a great option.  Scrapbook paper is generally sold as 12x12 in. squares and they are a moderately heavy card stock.  The down side to using them is that they are normally sold in stores as individual sheets, so buying in bulk to keep down prices can be a challenge.  Also, many papers are seasonal.  Once they are gone, you will never see them again.  So buy enough for your entire project ASAP.

Still, scrapbook papers are the main option for pattered paper in Cover weight.  Many of them are decorated on both sides, so they don't look like an unprofessional craft project when you use them for formal occasions.  Personally, I use them all the time for business cards.  Normally, if there is a pattern on one side, then there is a contrasting solid color on the reverse.  You can get your information made into a stamp and then stamp it onto your pre-cut blanks.  This is one of the least expensive ways to get those specialty, crafty-tastic business cards that are so in vogue at the moment.

Cover and card stock should be readily available in office supply stores and specialty print shops/paper stores.  For scrapbook paper, this is strictly a craft item and you will need to go to a craft store.  Buying online is also possible and will be necessary if you are looking for larger quantities.  The main scrapbook brands are Basic Grey, American Crafts (a personal fav), Cosmo Cricket, and Sassafras, just to name a few.  Martha Stewart Crafts also has some great designs, maybe the most elegant and tasteful in the bunch.  I think it can get kind of kitschy pretty fast in the world of scrapbooking.  I don't scrapbook and I am going to leave it at that.

The only source for patterned Cover paper for printing, which I am aware of, is the Mod-tone paper line from French Paper Co.  Actually, I take that back.  The invitation elements brand Envelopments also does patterned paper.  Or I should say that they buy papers from other manufactures and then silk screen their designs on it.  They do very pretty things and you can buy 8.5x11 sheets (I think they recently started to do larger sizes and custom cuts, too).  Heads up on the price though.  Envelopments isn't a brand for a low budget and you will need to buy through a reseller... but then you can buy/special order when that reseller has a sale.  Yay, sale!!

Intro to Buying Paper

I have been helping friends with a number of paper projects lately, and so it seems like an opportune moment to explain some paper terms.  I admit that I was a bit at a loss for images in this post (pictures of paper where there is only a difference in the thickness of the paper is like photographing the polar bear in the blizzard of marshmallows) so I went with some of the paper mash-ups that I have used for past design projects.

Okay, into the world of papery goodness!

The most important thing to understand is that paper is made... and just because there is a type of paper that you want, doesn't mean that someone makes it.  This unfortunate fact is important because you tend to go out and buy paper once you have a project designed and not design your project based on what is available (or how much it might cost to get something 'special').  Most people go get paper for invitations.  In most basic design, invitations/cards have two parts: envelope and card.  If you want these things to be of the same color/same finish of paper, then it means that you are buying your envelope and insides from the same line of paper.

The implication of buying these two parts from the same line of paper means that there is both a heavyweight paper (the card stock for your invitation) and then a lightweight paper (which the envelope is made out of).  Interestingly, most commercial papers only come in a card stock weight for textured paper and colors other than white/cream.  Only a few specialty paper makers give more options (see footnotes).

When you go to buy paper for printing, as opposed to paper for art or crafting, you will see certain terms.  Card stock paper is called 'Cover'.  The lighter weight paper is called 'Text'.  There is another type called 'Writing' and this weight is the thinnest, generally used for office printing and it is not substantial enough to use for events and nicer occasions.

When you are looking at these papers, you will also see weights, like 80 lb. Cover.  All papers will give you a physical weight, or description of thickness, besides cover/text/writing.  In the USA, you generally get the poundage.  Art papers and European/Japanese papers will normally give you a GSM weight, which is grams per square meter.  This literally means how much a square meter of the paper weighs.  The other measurement is a calliper thickness.  This is kind of helpful because you are given the thickness in a standard measurement (in points) but, if the paper has been pressed in a roller, it could be much sturdier than a paper of the same calliper thickness which was left unpressed and spongy.

The hard part about the American pound measurements is that the poundage is telling you the weight of a parent sheet of paper.  When commercial paper is made, it is first on a massive roll, then that roll is cut down (maybe a few times) into what is called 'parent sheets', and then these parent sheets get cut down (normally by paper distributors and not the manufactures) into smaller sheets for resale and printing.  Unfortunately, there is no standardization on sizing for parent sheets.  This means that an 100 lb. Cover from one brand can be much lighter in weight than one from another brand.  Also, there are 80 lb. Covers and 80 lb. Texts... in the same paper line.... and one is the card stock and one is the lightweight.

Ultimately, you need to physically go and feel the papers or get samples of them if you really want to know what you are getting.

I know that this post is going to be the first of many, going deeper and deeper into the world of commercial and art papers.  Hopefully, this will just help some of the words and numbers make sense as you stand in a paper store.  Much more to come on all of this... try to contain your excitement.

 

 

 

My favorite maker and supplier of commercial paper is French Paper Company.  Granted, I do not use them for basic whites and creams, but if I want something interesting, this is who I use.  All of their papers come in multiple weights, sizes, envelopes, it is all of excellent quality, and massive comparative value for what you are getting.  Plus some hysterical gift wrap.  I honestly have nothing but praise for their products.  And I am mostly snark, so this admiration is huge for me.

http://www.frenchpaper.com/

Tie Closures and Invitation Wrapping

Oh yes, it is paper crafting.

Today I am doing a sample mock-up of an invitation wrapper and tie closure for a friend's wedding.  As usual, these materials and this assembly is just a starting point and there are endless variations.

1.  A paper strip, width of your choice, and length that is long enough to encircle your invitation bundle.
2. Grommet/eyelet
3.  Hole punch and eyelet setter.  I am using the Making Memories brand Instant Setter, which is both hole punch and setter.
4. Circle punch.  You can use whatever size or shape you want.  This circle is going to be the tab that the string is wrapped around.
5.  String.... or whatever you want to use as your tie
6.  Everything else that you want to use for your invitation and envelope
7.  Other tools to keep around include scissors, pencil, ruler, and a large work mat.

Punch out your circle that will be the tab for the tie, cut an appropriate length of string, and select the correct diameter hole punch to use for your eyelet.

Punch the hole for the eyelet through the tab and the wrapper paper.

Put the tab on the eyelet and then tie your string on the eyelet.

Now put your wrapper paper on the eyelet.

Set the eyelet to seal everything in place.

You can trim the one string tail or leave it.  It is your choice.

Now you are all set to assemble.  I have a larger wrapper that is enclosing the invitation and rsvp card.

Tie it down and you are done.

I also used the same wrapper-paper to make an envelope liner.

If you don't like this particular look, you can also close up everything with other paper cut outs.  Just have some fun with this.  You really can let your imagination go with this type of assembly.

Big Oops, or how to refinish wood in a hurry

Accidents happen.

This one was avoidable.  I spilled ink on an unfinished wood table.  I knew better.  We all know better.  But it just seemed like a hassle to tarp the table.  I need to fix it in a hurry.

Okay, so this is a spill on unfinished wood.  The first thing to realize when you make a spill is to determine if the liquid is going to stay on the surface or if it is going to sink in.  Unfinished wood will generally absorb the liquid and will pull it deep into the grain.  If the liquid seems to be forming a meniscus and staying on the surface, don't disturb it and let it dry.  If not, get a cloth IMMEDIATELY.  Do not try to get a wet sponge and blot it out; the increase in moisture will only drive the stain deeper into the wood.

Once dry, just get a medium to fine grit sandpaper and sand off the stain.  Below is one of the ink spills after a few minutes of sanding.

It is pretty quick and simple.  After you get the stain sanded off, wipe the table down with a sponge.  While the wood is still damp, take some sandpaper designed for wet sanding and do a quick pass on the table top.  After the wood dries, you will have a perfect surface.  Sometimes, the new surface is even nicer than the one you started with.

The picture below is of the table top partially dried but fully sanded.

This particular ink removal took me about 20 minutes.... and now I will deny that it ever happened.

Best ABC Book EVER

All this making of baby gifts reminds me of this book:

 

I happened upon this book by chance a while ago and it was just so unique, I had to buy it.  It is a lovely thing.  This book is the translation/reprint by Charles Plante of the alphabet book made for the young Alfred Bourdier de Beauregard by his uncle Arnaud.

No one is really sure who exactly uncle Arnaud was, but it is clear that he loved his nephew and went through a lot of work to make him this precious gift.  Incidentally, the nephew Alfred prized this gift all his life.

Just a ton of work: drawing, painting, then binding.  Besides the fact that it is a labor of love, it is such a great window into aristocratic French life post-Revolution.  Alfred's family managed to escape death and preserve wealth (though the Chateau de Beaumont de Beauregard was partially burned by peasant mobs) by living a secluded life in this lovely chateau, illustrated in the book.  Plus, there are all the other important pictures that seem to be in every alphabet book since the beginning of time.

You always gotta have a rainbow.

 

 

More info on this peach of a book:
http://www.powells.com/biblio/1-9780847830107-0

We're going to need a bigger boat

The sheep was supposed to be done today.  But then, as always, things happened.

I started stuffing the body and the yarn for the body just kept expanding and expanding (I normally don't use the boucle).  Turns out that the sheep is now to scale and that my support system in the legs is now grossly inadequate.  So I need to rig something else up and I should finish and start accessorising within a few hours.  I think she needs a beret and a scarf.

I am kind of amazed at how big the expansion was.  It seriously doubled in size once it got stuffed.  See:

This sheep is going for a baby gift and it should out weigh the child for the first few years of its life.  While I enjoy giving ridiculous presents, this one was a bit unintentional.  It's like giving someone a killer whale; it's awesome....but now I have a killer whale...

Envelope Liners

Envelope liners are great way to dress up a basic envelope.  It is a pretty basic process that only requires a few materials.

The principle is simple:  you have an envelope, cut out a liner, and then you find some way to stick the liner in the envelope.

So take your envelope and trace the outline onto the paper that you want to use as a liner.

I generally line things up so the liner paper is about 1/8-1/4 inches shorter than the envelope (height-wise) because you won't see this edge of the liner (it is in the bottom of the envelope) and while there is no problem if your liner is a little short, there is a big problem if it is a little long.  As your liner is going to be more or less hidden on the inside of the envelope, this is a great opportunity to use paper that may have a crumple or a mark on a portion of it.

You can line up the envelope (width-wise) with the edge of your liner paper, even past the edge, because you are going to draw your cut lines on the interior of the envelope outline.  Though you don't have to do all your mark making on the reverse side of your liner paper, I think it is best to do so, just so you won't have to worry about seeing these marks later.

Deciding where your cut lines are going to go is really up to you.  The biggest factor is the gum on the envelope flap.  This is what keeps your envelope sealed, so it is best not to cover it.  Aesthetically, I like to keep the overall board equal from the tops to the side, but you do what you want.

Just cut out along the lines.  If you are using a paper with a very fine fiber, it is much faster to use a metal ruler to rip your paper (plus you get a soft, deckle-like edge) instead of using scissors to cut it out.  Also, if you are doing this en masse, you should make a template to trace around for the liner out of chipboard/card stock to save time.

After you have your liner cut out, you just have to adhere it in the envelope.  This is the most tricky part.  Well, not so much tricky, but you do have some choices.  The most important thing is that you only put adhesive on the liner on the portion of the liner that will be on the flap of the envelope.  If you put the adhesive lower, on the envelope body, then you will have bunching and wrinkling when you fold down the flap.  Just not attractive.

The main question here is picking out your adhesive.  I am using ATG tape.  There are other adhesives that you could use, depending on the papers that you are using, but ATG tape, or another double sided tape, will always work for everything.  Basically, glue stick or any type of liquid tape will show if you are using delicate papers, vellum, or coated papers (like metallic).  It will look really bad.  And here, I am using a delicate paper as my liner and a metallic paper for my envelope.  So I just use ATG tape for everything when I am doing invitations and cards.  I should also mention that the ATG gun is pretty expensive, but if you are doing a big project, it becomes cheaper than any other type of tape very fast.

Alright, now slip the liner into the envelope being careful not to stick the liner down until you have it in its final position.  Do not fold over your flap until you have your envelope stuffed!!  If you fold it over right now, the fold will be in the wrong place and when you fold later, when the envelope is stuffed, you have a funky looking double-fold.  So just hold tight.

Okay, now your envelope is full and ready for mailing.  Fold down and seal.  Get that guy in the mail and prepare to hear back on how awesome it looks.